Natalia Grossman is one of the top female competitors of all time. She has won an astounding 11 World Cups and 4 World Cup seasons in a row! She also competed in the 2024 Paris Olympics for Team USA. Even though Natalia won the WC season in 2024, it was a tough year for her. She suffered a serious injury during the semi finals in the first World Cu…

Episode 175 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on November 22, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Premier League meeting - financial rule changes explained Newcastle chairman Yasir Al-Rumayyan with President-elect Donald Trump at UFC Club World Cup place change? FIFA challenged …

This is a follow-up episode to the last Melina Costanza podcast, #119. That episode was one of the fan favorites, josh favorites, and even favorites of other professional climbers. Go listen to that one first, because it was amazing and will set the stage for this follow-up episode. It’s only been a month since Melina last came on, but in that mont…

Episode 174 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on November 15, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Gianni Infantino's name on Club WC trophy as "founding president"; FIFA uses Fabrizio Romano for ads; Should referees be drug tested?; Influencer plays in Argentina league; PL clubs…

This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they recorded this podcast. Ross is back on the pod after a multi year hiatus. Ross was actually the very first guest back on episode #3 and #4! Since then Ross has won t…

Episode 173 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on November 7, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Donald Trump re-elected: Impact on World Cups, Olympics & LIV Golf. Hear from the president-elect on FIFA, head injuries, PGA-Saudi golf deal. And hear Gianni Infantino's praise of T…

Adam Shahar is the name that keeps coming up when I ask who is an up and coming star. At 18 he had a breakout year where he won bouldering nationals, climbed V15 in a few sessions while he was on the road doing WC’s, and then became IFSC’s Athlete of the Week when he narrowly missed finals with a 7th place finish at the Prague WC. He also had perha…

If you watched the Paris Olympics then you remember Hamish McArthur’s stand out performance to secure an incredible 5th place finish. Hamish had already stood atop World Cup podiums and won Youth Worlds, but his Olympic showing was a clear level up. In this episode Hamish shares what changed for him in the year leading up to the Olympics and how it…

Episode 172 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on October 25, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Football local or global? Gianni Infantino's dig at those who "keep to themselves" How FIFA got Lionel Messi to Club World Cup & undermined the MLS playoffs; Arsene Wenger changes tu…

You’ve heard of Matt Fultz, but you may not realize just how amazing Matt is. He’s climbed eight V16’s. 8. Eight! By the way, two of them are rarely repeated and recognized as some of the hardest in the world (Hypnotized Minds and Big Z). He’s FA’d 7 climbs V15 and up, including 2 V15’s in one day!! We’re pretty sure that’s a world’s first, but who…

Episode 171 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on October 18, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Why Chelsea sale cash remain locked Paris FC's Louis Vuitton takeover Nigeria national team's ordeal in Libya Another FIFA World Cup sponsor not signing up for Club World Cup. Infant…

Alvaro Rangel, Al, is back on the podcast after 2+ years! Al was one of the first guests and one of the best. The last podcast we did was incredible, but somehow Al managed to top it with today’s episode. He is the founder and head coach of Team Class 5 in San Diego, CA. Al is also part of the Team USA coaching staff and supports the team at World …

Episode 170 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on October 13, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Future of Premier League financial rules & global transfers What the European Club Association discussed at Athens gathering FIFA's gaming deal but still no FIFA game - and why aren'…

Episode 169 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on October 8, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Manchester City v Premier League - tribunal verdict & financial rules explained. Who won & what's next? ​Follow the pod WhatsApp channel for updates ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠https://whatsapp.com/channel…

Melina Costanza is an 8x US National Champion. Sometimes as a youth, sometimes as a collegiate, sometimes in Open, sometimes in bouldering, sometimes in lead, sometimes both. Yes, last year at Open Nationals (2023) she won both Bouldering and Lead. She is set to compete in the 2024 Open Nationals coming up in a week, so after you listen to this pod…

Episode 168 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on October 5, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Transfers ruling - what it means; World Cup decisions - how transparent is FIFA?; Club World Cup changes to player contracts; News agency's doping stories pulled after WADA media chie…

Ward Byrum is the Director of Routesetting for all Movement gyms in the East Region. Yes, that Movement. The biggest climbing gym chain in America and probably the world. That means that Ward and his team decide what the climbing will be like for thousands of climbers. Scratch that, ten’s of thousands of climbers. It might even be hundreds of thous…

Episode 167 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on September 29, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Premier League financial rules - the confidentiality and secrecy that creates confusion over financial rules Club World Cup - venues now chosen but where are the sponsors and broad…

Tom Randall is an iconic climber and founder. You might know him as one of the Wide Boyz, as one of the founders of Lattice Training, as a high level coach, or for his 5.14 Trad FA’s or even his FA of the worlds hardest crack boulder, aptly named “The Kraken” [V13]. Ya, Tom’s done it all, and has helped the best in the world do it even better. In t…

Episode 166 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on September 20, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. FIFA tries to sell Club World Cup & reveals more new cups feeding into the Intercontinental Cup; How authentic and credible are quotes handed out by FIFA backing FIFA? Blatter-Plati…

David Fitzgerald is back after an absolutely incredible season. Dave was previously on for Testpiece Episode #55, a total fan favorite. Last season Dave had a list of climbs in different styles to tackle. Tierrany, a V14 endurance bloc in Yosemite. Equanimity, a V15 ultra tech testpiece in Tahoe. Lucid Dreaming, the V15+ straight forward power prob…

Episode 165 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on September 15, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Football: Man United finance & Chelsea ownership rift; French league president stays despite TV rights struggles; English parachute payments & regulator issues; China corruption IOC…

Garrett Gregor was the head routesetter for the Paris Olympics boulders! That’s all you need to know. Just stop reading this description and start listening now. Garrett is also an accomplished competitor, placing as high as 4th at Nationals, an experienced coach at the legendary Team ABC, and did we mention he’s an elite routesetter?! IFSC Level 5…

Episode 164 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on September 9, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. ​FIFA’s Club World Cup has a logo and familiar anthem - but where are the sponsors and broadcasters? ​PR fight back with tweets - FIFA over 2026 World Cup sponsor coverage, facts and…

Episode 163 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on September 5, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. How Leicester won their Premier League profit and sustainability case to avoid points deduction; What's Chelsea's ownership & transfer strategy?; Dynamic ticket pricing; NFL opens to…

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the founder of Camp 4 Human Performance, a company focused on bringing the principles of sport science to climbing. Tyler is focused on being a cutting edge resource for training and rehabilitation of climbers. This means he is always knee deep in research papers from all sorts of sports and asking how we might apply those lesso…

This is the episode to learn everything about one of, if not the, most important parts of our climbing kit — chalk! The real topic here is how to maximize friction between your hands and the holds, which is crucial for sending your hardest. Kevin Brown joins the pod and goes deep on the science of how to get the best friction on holds. He talks abo…

Professional climber, coach, routesetter, and frequent Testpiece podcast guest, Tim Kang, is on the pod this week to share his thoughts about the Paris 2024 Olympics. Tim may be best known for his highball ascents that culminated in the film Focus, but Tim is also a seasoned competition climber with multiple World Cups under his belt. Tim loves com…

Episode 162 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on August 16, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. • Premier League starts with uncertainty - when will Man City & Chelsea cases conclude; Will Textor save Everton?; Saudi CONCACAF deal; Club WC sales pitch; Hayatou's FIFA legacy; US c…

Tom O’Halloran is arguably the best climber in Australia. He’s an Olympian, he’s climbed 15a and v14, and done FA’s nearly up to those grades as well. But the reason we wanted to have him on the podcast is because of the amazing YouTube content he puts out. He dives into the nuances of hard climbing in a way that actually helps people climb hard. T…

Episode 161 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on August 7, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. • Olympics insiders: China doping dispute; gender eligibility challenges, chaos & Russia links; culture wars; Paris food flops; IOC shows how to be accountable daily. Saudi Arabia World…

Ethan Salvo is back on the podcast! Ethan's first episode (linked here) was a fan favorite so when Josh visited Squamish for a few days they met up do an impromptu live/in-person recording. Since the last recording, Ethan has climbed arguably the hardest climb in Squamish, The Singularity. The experience he had on it was fascinating and made him qu…

Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler represent the next generation of climbers. At 21 and 19, they are some of the strongest board climbers in the world and their styles reflect that. They also are bring a unique point of view to the world of climbing content with their YouTube channel, Wheel Rock. These brothers have climbed up to V16 outdoors, FA’d up V…

Episode 160 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues.On the agenda on July 22, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. • Inside Paris Olympics: How to avoid doping bans - in Britain, US & China; Russia's disinformation campaigns against IOC; Cyber attack fears; Empty seat concerns • mailto:sportunlockedp…

AJ has been competing at the highest level for decades. She has won multiple Bouldering World Cups and she climbs just as hard outdoors with her iconic send of The Swarm (v13/14) in Bishop which was recently featured in Reel Rock. AJ also coaches some of the top up and coming Youth Athletes (one of her athletes recently won Nationals), through her …

Episode 159 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on July 19, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Heated moment when Tariq & Rob encountered influencer IShowSpeed at the Euro 2024 final Miami Copa America final chaos - concerns for 2026 and would other future World Cup hosts have fa…

Drew Ruana is one of the strongest boulders in the world. Period. He over a hundred V14+ sends, and lots of then are V16. While some other climbers may have that amount of blocs under their belt, no one has accumulated this many in such a short time. Drew goes into his infamous “Send Colorado” journey, which is his goal to send all V14 and up bould…

Felipe Camargo is one of the top climbers in our sport with sends up to 9b and V15. That’s impressive… But what’s more impressive is that he began climbing Brazil where there was no professional climbers, no routes past 8b+, and no modern training facilities. Felipe managed to send the iconic 50m 9a+ Papichulo by mainly training on a 3x3m spray wal…

Episode 158 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on July 7, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Euro 2024 Germany-Türkiye-UEFA diplomatic tensions; UK election sports fallout; World Cup qualification slipped out?; Olympic disinformation?; Chinese swimmers case; AI & sports reportin…

Tim Kang is a frequent guest on the podcast, but now you get to hear him do a more typical interview. Tim is a professional climber and coach that has competed at the World Cup level, won a Psicobloc competition, climbed v14 and 5.14d, but he is best known for his daring sends of the wildest highballs in Bishop which culminated in the popular film …

Episode 157 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on June 28, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Euros - Georgia joy, influencers & logistics; PL transfer deals & rule compliance; Man United women's team issues; Can new series boost athletics?; Dutch volleyball Olympics controversy…

Greg Loh was one of the strongest boulders in the world during the mid 90’s and early 00’s. He traveled all over the world putting up FA’s of V13+ and climbing with the best. He competed in WC’s, the X-Games, and even won Nationals twice for speed climbing. He is known for being one of the first people who truly embraced bouldering as a discipline …

Episode 156 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on June 14, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. From Euro 2024 in Germany Footballers' unions sue FIFA over men's Club World Cup - should players have more of a say on competitions or is FIFA helping raise players' profiles? Saudi Ar…

Entitlement is the opposite of flow and perhaps the most damaging frame to have over the long term in your climbing. This can come from training, previous sends, or comp placement. Hear stories about Daniel Woods and other pro-climbers who have avoided this frame. And hear from Tim Kang and Josh Horsley about how they coach others and themselves to…

We love board climbing. And if you do too, or even if you are just board curious, this episode it for you. The history of boards, board training, board ethics, board best practices, the future of boards. BOARDS!! This was a special in person recording in Colorado with part of the Tension Climbing crew (Will Anglin, Michael Rosato, and Quinn Spadafo…

Episode 155 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on June 7, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Man City's new legal battle with PL, 115 charges update & spending rules explained Germany football poll slammed for racism ahead of Euros; Juve back in ECA; Fenerbahce public on Mourinh…

Dave Burleson is one of the top agents for professional climbers. He's part of Reppa Athlete Managment that represents athletes like Sean Bailey, Nathaniel Coleman, Nina Williams, Jesse Grupper… the list goes on, but all of them have been on the podcast so we put them here first! Before being an agent, Dave worked at the iconic brands Petzl and The…

Episode 154 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on May 31, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Dortmund's arms sponsor European trophy triumph for Greece & UEFA GS Player strikes? Boycott? New Club World Cup threats to FIFA as FIFPRO raises burn-out concerns Another Super League c…

Episode 153 of Sport Unlocked, the podcast dissecting the week's sports news issues. On the agenda on May 24, 2024 with Rob Harris, Martyn Ziegler and Tariq Panja. Investigating Roman Abramovich; Manager quits after racist abuse of ref; Premier League spot-fixing case - Paqueta; Inter Milan ownership; Saudi's new tennis deal with WTA Send any quest…

Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. They also go over the late…