show episodes
 
Most of today’s climbing media is focused on what happens at the edges of the sport involving the most experienced and talented climbers in the world. Your host Kyle Broxterman believes that most of these stories and experiences do not directly relate to the majority of climbers that now exist. Thanks to gyms, the Olympics, and mainstream media coverage a vast growing group of people are now discovering this magical sport. As a part of this group, he is here to give this new Climbing Majorit ...
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A podcast for climbing nerds who just want to talk about this bizarre world. Join us. Bonus content at www.patreon.com/climbingisneither Email the pod at climbingisneither@gmail.com Find us on instagram @crispshawarma and @climbingisneither.
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Not Your Typical Climber

Not Your Typical Climber

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Showcasing the diverse voices of climbers and exploring underrepresented voices in the world of climbing. From pro-climbers to amateurs, and everyone in between; every person who climbs has something that makes them unique, and that’s what we’re here to explore. Hosted by Mel Reeve.
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Join host Kevin Riley for in-depth interviews with the pillars of the rock-climbing community. We’ll be speaking with athletes, writers and photographers, industry VIPS, and, of course, the Climbing editorial staff to discuss breaking news and the pressing issues of the day. Whether you’re an elite alpinist, a recreational sport climber, a die-hard trad climber, or a vFun boulderer—this podcast is for you.
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show series
 
Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, findin…
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Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new b…
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Welcome back to the final episode of the TCM triple crown! Today we get the privilege to sit down with both Tanner Wanish and Micheal Vaill to discuss their most recent achievement, the Yosemite Quad. If for some reason you’ve made it here without listening to the two prior episodes I highly consider stopping and checking those out before you conti…
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Today, we’re continuing The Climbing Majority’s ‘Triple Crown’ series with Michael Vaill, one of the two climbers who recently broke the Yosemite Triple Crown speed record and, just a week later, made history with the monumental Yosemite Quad. If you missed yesterday’s conversation with his partner, Tanner Wanish, I highly recommend giving it a lis…
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I first reached out to Tanner back in March, right after he and his climbing partner, Michael Vaill, had completed the Red Rock Triple in an impressive 12 hours and 35 minutes. I was stoked to share their story, but little did I know it would take six months to get the chance to sit down with them. Looking back, I couldn’t be happier it turned out …
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Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here! Sign the Petition: Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area (https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf…
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progres…
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Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Ka…
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Today marks a significant turning point for The Climbing Majority. After three years and 76 episodes, my co-host and partner, Max Carrier, has made the difficult decision to step away from the show to dedicate more time to his educational pursuits, mountaineering, and his personal goals. This episode is dedicated to Max—both in celebration of every…
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Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new fil…
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Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for…
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever. Listen to more Fundam…
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Welcome to Part II of our conversation with Tyler Karow. If you missed Part I, I highly recommend checking it out before continuing here. Tyler Karow has built a highly engaged following on YouTube and Instagram, to the point where many might label him as an influencer. While his impact on the climbing community is undeniable, Tyler is quick to dis…
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Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for youn…
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the pow…
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I'm sure we've all been there—the dream of living a life solely dedicated to climbing: sponsorships, life on the road, making a living through our passion for the sport. For many, this represents the ultimate freedom. Often, this grand vision captures us in our early climbing years, yet it seldom holds much reality. Attracting sponsors and dedicati…
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Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighti…
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Pro climber and mental training coach Lor Sabourin shares their journey into climbing and outdoor adventure. Lor reflects on the importance of defining success on their own terms, and their experience as a non-binary climber. They share insights into managing fear while climbing, drawing from their expertise in mental coaching. Mel and Lor interrog…
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes,…
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Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers…
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Rock climbing and adventure photographer Irene Yee shares how she became a successful photographer focusing on representation in outdoor activities, including climbing. Irene and Mel discuss the impact of her photography, why she’s committed to creating diverse content, and the transformative power of climbing. We cover developing the skill of self…
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Welcome back to Part II of our conversation with Brant Hysell. Climber, olive mafia boss, and man behind The Gravity Lab YouTube channel. If you missed Part I, I highly recommend checking it out before continuing here. Today, it’s story time with Brant as we dive into three of his most memorable climbs: Freestone, Lurking Fear, and his recent solo …
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Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to com…
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and mo…
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Kimbrough Moore is a climbing enthusiast and philosophy professor, he joins us to share his perspective on climbing ethics. Find out how he got started in climbing, his competition experience, and his perspective on the issue of gender bias in climbing grades. Mel and Kimbrough discuss his ‘Brough code’, and how a more accurate and nuanced approach…
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Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bu…
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In the age of social media and digital platforms like YouTube, creators often develop a "digital persona" that’s shaped by the content they produce. As viewers, it’s easy to make assumptions about who they are and how they live their lives. Today, we have the chance to peel back the layers and break down the digital persona behind The Gravity Lab Y…
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Jocelynne Flor is a Toronto-based climber and content creator whose engaging videos make the world of climbing feel accessible to everyone. Through her educational and inspiring content, Jocelynne shares her climbing journey. Mel and Jocelynne explore the driving force behind her creativity, and why it feels important to make climbing approachable …
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Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords. Listen to m…
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We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon. Listen to Fundamentals epi…
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Agus ‘AJ’ Guardiola, co-founder of ClimbOut Festival shares their experience creating an inclusive space for the LGBTQ+ community in outdoor climbing. Hear about their own climbing journey and the motivation behind starting ClimbOut Festival, as well as what it feels like to attend. Mel and AJ explore the work ClimbOut is doing to increase diversit…
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Today, we continue our conversation with Bryce and Evan about their recent successful completion of The Nose on El Cap. If you missed episode 71, I recommend checking it out before continuing here. After listening to their account of what transpired on the wall during those 72 hours, I came to a realization. When we look up at a piece of rock like …
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Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men’s and women’s combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men’s and women’s combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Oly…
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Fallon Rowe is a climber with hypermobile Ehlers-Danlos syndrome (HEDS) and postural orthostatic tachycardia syndrome (POTS). From competing in youth climbing competitions to trad and sport climbing as an adult, Fallon explores the importance of mental resilience and self-compassion in navigating the challenges of climbing with a health condition. …
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Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happi…
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Palestinian climber Asia shares how she fell in love with sport and explains the challenges of accessing outdoor climbing in Palestine. She opens up about how climbing provides an escape from the restrictions and hardships of living under occupation. We discuss how Asia uses her creative skills to shed light on the reality of life in Palestine and …
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I think you would agree that there is arguably no rock formation more infamous than El Cap . With its massive presence in the development of North American climbing, iconic size, and technical challenges, it stands as a beacon for climbers worldwide to test their abilities on a sea of stone. When we start climbing, El Cap is often at the forefront …
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Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoo…
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Hannah Morris started her YouTube channel as a way to share her love for climbing and as an outlet for anxiety. We discuss mental health, body image, and the pushback she has received as a woman with a prominent climbing platform. Mel and Hannah chat about inclusivity, her collaborations, and her aim to work with climbers pushing the sport in a pos…
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Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed r…
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Today, we are continuing our conversation with Evan Wisheropp. If you missed part one, I highly recommend checking it out first. It provides a foundation for understanding who Evan is as a climber and how he achieved the objectives we’re discussing today. In this episode, we’ll dive into Evan’s two main passions: desert offwidth splitters and route…
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Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 …
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Not Your Typical Climber is a podcast that speaks to pro climbers, amateur climbers, hobby climbers, and anyone who finds joy in the sport. With a particular focus on the things that make us different and unique, the podcast uplifts the voices of those who have been underrepresented within climbing. Every climber has a unique story to tell, and we'…
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Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I’ve struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, wei…
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Today, we are sitting down with Evan Wisheropp, a part-time professional photographer with a full-time passion for climbing. Evan's climbing journey began like many of ours—in a gym. From there, he explored various climbing disciplines until he found his true passions: desert offwidths and route development. Off-width climbing, takes Evan to Indian…
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How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granit…
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Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) is a world-class climber and coach who specializes in technique and mental game. This episode is a technique masterclass. We talk about the four stages of technique, how to practice any new skill, how to send faster, his goal to climb 9a before 60, and Justen coaches me on how to float on the wall using his drop-d…
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